Using an A-174-1 Joystick for WobWob

I'm not sure how to name my latest collection of short basic tutorials yet, but i am considering the name "PatchPourri" for this weird collection of short basic patch-ideas.

My latest video shows how you can simply use an A-174-1 Joystick for dubstep-like effects.
The idea comes partly from blogpost i wrote about Dmitry Shtatnov's DIY-fader, but i used this patch before on several other occasions.

In the video a 2-note sequence from the MAQ16/3 controls a standard A-110 VCO.

I connected the X-output from the joystick module to the CV input of a VCA, and the Y-output controls an A-121 Filter (lowpass mode).

Very simple, very basic... off course you can expand this in all kinds of ways.

Have fun experimenting!

Video: Using an A-174-1 Joystick for WobWob by PatchPierre

" Short PatchPierre Tutorial
Equipment used: Doepfer A-100, Roland TB-303, Machinedrum "

Uploaded by PatchPierre (subscribe!)

Read how i removed the spring from the x-axis of the A-174 Joystick module at http://patchpierre.blogspot.nl/2010/09/happy-modding-ii-joystick-spring.html

Alternative Controllers: Dmitry Shtatnov's Wob-Wob Fader

Dmitry Shtatnov uploaded a nice video from his latest DIY-project/invention.
He created a CV-source module that consists of an 8 HP front-panel with two faders, two separate mini-jack outputs and a switch.

Dmitry's Wob-Bob fader

The faders generate CV voltages, and each fader has its own output.
A switch is added to select between (regular) fader mode and so-called wob-wob mode with a 0V.-centre in the middle.
I must say it does create a nice effect, and IMO not only suitable for making Dub-Step...

Dmitry even shares the schemetics if you're interested in this project, contact him via his site or via YouTube.

Video: Wob-Wob Filter

" This short demonstration shows my little invention: CV-source dedicated for Dub-Step drops. Unlike regular fader, this one has its maximal value on the middle position. Schematics available. It's very simple and it's free for non-commercial use.
You can get schematic here: http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/rpocc/...
R2 and R3 can be replaced with 4.7k to increase the sweep width. http://rpocc.ru/"

Uploaded by rpocc

As an alternative you could also use the A-174-2 Modulation Wheels CV Source for this.

This module has 2 wheels, and comes standard as one spring loaded wheel with bipolar voltage output, and one wheel without spring with only positive voltage output as a standard.

For each wheel two jumpers are available: one for the voltage range (positive or bipolar) and one for the voltage plateau around 0 V.
Another option to re-create this effect would be with an A-174(-1) Joystick module...

Happy Knobbing III - New Joystick-Lever

The latest minor modification to my A-100 system  is the replacement of the A-174 Module's joystick.

I finally changed my black plastic lever with a newer aluminium one that i ordered at Doepfer last week.

Modules before 2007 had the black plastic lever as standard, all modules delivered after 2007 already have this aluminium lever.

It's just a small optical change, nothing more. The new lever is a bit shorter, but does have a nice/better grip though. And that for only 10 Euro's...

<  Old vs. new lever

A-134-2 Dual Voltage Controlled Crossfader

 My latest ( my 60th! ) Module is the A-134-2 Dual Voltage Controlled Crossfader.

This module, that contains two identical voltage controlled crossfader units can be used in combination with controller modules like the Wheels or the Joystick controller to make fades between different sounds  ( or even control signals like LFO's ) 

Each unit has two voltage controlled amplifiers (VCAs) with opposite control behaviour.

In standard (assymetrical) mode, with 0 volts CV added to CV1, input A is fully closed and input B fully opened.

Adding more control voltage to the CV1 input will result a volume increase at input A and a decrease of the volume at input B. In the middle position you will hear a nice mix of the two inputs.

Different settings for the module are available, by switching the internal jumpers you can make the CV inputs ready for bi-directional voltages ( positive and negative ).

By coupling both units you can even control 4 inputs with, for example the A-174 Joystick Module's control voltage, where the centre is the 50% mix and each 'corner' of the joystick is an individual input. A truly amazing and very versatile little module...

Happy Modding II - Joystick Spring Removal

The A-174 Joystick Controller outputs 2 control voltages, generated by a spring-loaded X/Y cross potentiometer.
Two springs inside the module take care that the controlling lever returns to it's centre position if untouched.

One very easy modification is the removal of a spring from this module


The process of removing is quite simple, and is described clearly on the Doepfer DIY page / section 4.2.10.

I decided to remove one spring only, the horizontal one. ( X-axis )
This way the Controller stays fixed, even if i let go of the lever, and doesn't automaticly go back to the middle.

If you do this to the Y-axis ( vertical ) of the module, the lever would fall down to it's lowest position due to gravity, which also can be handy in some situations, but not mine at the moment.

This small modification adds just that tiny bit more flexibility to my setup.

Note: Pay attention that warranty is lost if the joystick is modified !

Best Friends Forever I

Van PatchPierre

A few times a year i unwire my whole A-100 system, it's like putting up a fresh canvas. New inspiration, new sounds in this case.

There are a few thing i never unwire, because i use them that much.

My first example is this one; The A-174 Joystick and the A-175 Dual Voltage Inverter.
They both sit neatly next to each-other in my rack, and i always keep the two yellow cables between them connected. What a dynamic duo...

I use my A-174 the most for controlling the cutoff of filters or for controlling the speed of the A-147 Voltage Controlled LFO module

The A-175 is such a simple but effective module, and its inputs are internally linked, so you can use the other socket as a mini-multiple

This allowes you to have both control voltages and its identical inverted voltages available at the same time.