Modifications V : Replacing more LEDs

I am not sure if i should bother you all with every LED i replace, but my first try went so well that i am happy to share my latest update too.

This time i very bravely went for two (2!) LEDs at once. The module i picked for this was the A-166 Dual Logic Module. I thought the 2 inverted trigger output LEDs at the bottom of the front-plate were perfect for this. I don't use these a lot, so the lower 2 LEDs are almost always burning, what also gives a nice effect in the dark.

To reach the soldering-points of the 2 LEDs i had to remove one of the modules boards on the backside.
This was was easy as each board is only fixed with its own 8 sockets. After that i removed the flat connector between the two boards and that created enough access to do my work.

De-soldering the old LEDs was a piece of cake, and the new ones fitted quite easy too.
See my earlier LED replacement post HERE for (safety) remarks, warnings and additional info.

SiteTip III : Tim Stinchcombe's A-100/Modular Webpage

Another useful resource for A-100 and other DIY-projects is Tim Stinchcomb's personal A-100/Modular webpage.

Very interesting for starting DIY-ers, this site is a very interesting read. Don't let the design of the pages mislead you ;)

Most of the projects and instructions on this site can be found via the Doepfer Yahoo Usergroup, but this is a neat collection of some of the A-100 modifications that are not too difficult.

You can also find some Plan B modification instructions on this site, together with other nice DIY-projects like for example this cool stereo LED VU-meter built in a blind-panel to fit a Eurorack system.

Great site... very inspiring.

To Patch... or Not to Patch

'patch'  -  [ pach ] :

verb: To connect together, as the inputs and outputs of various modules, generally with patch-cords.

noun: The configuration of hookups and settings that result from the process of patching, and, by extension, the sound that such a configuration creates.

from: Vintage Synthesizers by Mark Vail

- Related forms:

patch·a·ble, adjective
patcher, noun
patchless, adjective
un·patched, adjective
well-patched, adjective

from: dictionary.com

more on Wikipedia

Modifications IV : Replacing LEDs

 Instead of going the easy route by ordering A-100 modules with blue LEDs, i just had to try to do this by myself. Lately you can pre-order modules with blue LEDs installed for a 2 Euro fee per assembled LED, but i don't believe that was possible when i bought my first modules.

It wasn't a very difficult job, perhaps more difficult was choosing which LED i wanted to replace. As always, i try to keep the look of the system as logic as possible, other examples are the colored switches and colored patch-cables.
( also see Color-Coding )
Plus, for my first replacement i wanted to find an LED that was a easily accessible. I found out that the Doepfer boards are so full that many of the LED are in tight spots on the boards.

I'm glad that i had finally found one; the overload LED from my A-119 External Input / Envelope Follower.
Removing the old LED was easy. I bent it out of it's front-plate hole and heated the soldering-points one by one while pulling the LED out softly.
After that i took the new blue LED, bent the 90 degrees angle the same way as the old one and pushed it gently into the A-100's board again. The solder that was left from the old LED was enough to tightly fix the new one.

A few notes:
- You can not use any LED, only use the same ones that Doepfer provides. Always check documentation for more info.
- Due to technical reasons not every red LED can be replaced by a blue one. ( like the Vactrol modules ) Check each module's webpage before you start.
- Don't forget to check the polarity of the LED's ( + / - )
- Blue LED's are actually transparent/white when they are not lit.

Quick Tip IV : Ribbon Cable

A small personal advice for owners of an A-198 Ribbon Controller or R2M manual controller;

Please unplug the USB-cable when you are not using the instrument.
The weight of the cable has more then once broken the USB-connector on my Ribbon Controller.

Or try to keep the controller and cable on a flat surface...

...also see THIS post.

Blind Panels II

Beside for safety uses, as mentioned in one of my earlier posts, the blind-panels that Doepfer sells are also perfectly usable for all types of DIY-projects.
The 'standard' panels of 4,8,42 and 84 HP can be used for all types of original self-made modules or expanders. Sadly they don't have other sizes, but wouldn't it be nice if they had a 16HP and perhaps a 24HP to 'fill in the gaps'.

Drilling the metal plates is quite easy ( if you use the right tools ), and the panels come with pre-drilled mounting-holes.
If you don't like drilling, you can also order some pre-manufactured panels from the Doepfer A-100 specials list;


They still have many punched A-100 standard front panels of 4HP width, punched for 8 sockets, identical to A-180 front panel but without printing, very useful  for DIY or A-101-9 expansion  applications. You can save yourself some money by making your own A-180 multiple for almost half the price. (sockets can also be ordered at Doepfer )

Punched A-100 standard front panels of 8HP width are still available too. Punched for 5 potentiometers and 5 sockets (same as A-102, A-103, A-105, A-120, A-122, A-123, A-124, A-130, A-131, A-138), without silk screen printing.
They even  fit the Synovatron DIY1 and DIY2 kits. (*confirmed / ,but see feedback for remarks and more info)
Update March 3 2011: Synovatron now sells his own generic front panels for his DIY kits.

Doepfer also still has a few 14 HP front panels punched for 2 wheels and 4 sockets ( like A-174-2 ), without printing, that might useful e.g. for a DIY wheel module. Order it with two modulation wheels and you even get the front-plate for free...

Quotes IV : Wendy Carlos

"A nice blend of prediction and surprise seem to be at the heart of the best art."

Wendy Carlos

http://wendycarlos.com/